Going inside Africa - Sailing on Atlantic Ocean and Gambia River
Leg: 14.16
Cruise rout: Mindelo (Cabo Verde) - Dakar (Senegal)
Mindelo (CABO VERDE) - Banjul (GAMBIA) 27/12/2014 - 10/01/2015
22/12/2014 - 26/12/2014 - SAO VICENTE - Mindelo – arrival and accommodation.
1st DAY 27/12/2014 - SATURDAY - SAO VICENTE - Mindelo - visiting, getting charms of the island, catching atmosphere of Cabo Verde, listening to the rhythms of Morna and Coladeira.
SAO VICENTE is a part of the Windward Islands. It lies between Santo Antão and Santa Luzia. The island has a varied landscape - coasts are formed by beautiful sandy beaches dipped in turquoise waters. On the island are cultivated sporting traditions, especially wind-surfing. For this sport the best conditions for that sport occur near the beach of Sao Pedro, numerous championships at the international level are organised there. São Vicente is also popular for biking and horseback. The main center of the island is called Mindelo, the most beautiful of the towns of Cabo Verde and the second largest city in the country, inhabited by approx. 75 thousand people. The beautiful port city, surrounded by mountains, with a richly-preserved colonial architecture is also a cultural capital of the island - famous singer Cesaria Evora was born here.
Worth seeing: Palácio do Governador, Paço do Concelho, Centro Nacional de Artesanato (handicraft art exhibition), historic church Nossa Senhora da Luz, the fish market located in a copy - or rather in a miniature - of the famous Tower of Belem Lisbon.
2nd DAY 28/12/2014 - SUNDAY → SAO NICOLAU - approx. 60 Nm
SAO NICOLAU is one of the Windward Islands archipelago, located between Santa Luzia and Sal. Its landscape is mostly mountainous, with beautiful beaches located on the shores, where tourism develops. Worth seeing are towns with a colonial character, colorful houses and narrow streets named Ribeira Brava and Tarrafal, where is a beach of dark volcanic sand. Very popular on the island is fishing - also as a sport.
3rd DAY 12/29/2014 - MONDAY → BOA VISTA - approx. 90Nm
BOA VISTA - from Portuguese "a good view" - the island belongs to the archipelago of the Windward Islands. The most distinctive for the island are beautiful sandy beaches and dunes, sea turtles and ultramarathons organized here. Boa Vista is famous for its traditional music and sing of exotic birds. The main center is the town of Sal Rei, which are now becoming increasingly popular for tourists, which causes an increase in the number of hotels. To the north and to the northeast of the island about a hundred ships sunken in the shallows, over the centuries. The most famous is the wreck of a Spanish freighter Cabo de Santa Maria, which lies at the Costa de Boa Esperança, approx. 8 km from Sal Rei. Also worth is a visit of Fort Duque de Bragança.
4th DAY 30.12.2014 - TUESDAY → SANTIAGO - Praia - Cidade Velha - approx. 80Nm
SANTIAGO - the largest of Cape Verde Islands. It is inhabited by half of country population. This is where on the southern part the country's capital - Praia (the largest city in the Republic of Cape Verde) is located. It is the administrative center of the country, an important port and tourist attraction, due to its colonial architecture and beaches. The most important places are concentrated in the historic district of Plato, mainly in the vicinity of Praca (Square) of Alexandre Albuquerque. These include Presidential Palace, the Church of Nossa Senhora da Graca and Palacio da Cultura. Stunning views of the city and nearby island of Santa Maria boast from the city walls. Also worth a visit is the fruit and vegetable market. Being at the Santiago it is necessary to see Cidade Velha ("old city"), with the historic old town - the oldest city of Cape Verde and the first European settlement founded in the tropics. Before 1770 it was the capital of the country, founded in the fifteenth century. Numerous significant buildings and ruins of past centuries, including ruins of the cathedral and of the Real do Sao Filipe fort are in the town. The landscape of the island is mostly mountainous, but a fanatic of the sun cannot complain about beautiful sandy beaches shortages (Tarrafal, Pedra Badejo or Sao Francisco).
5th DAY 31.12.2014 - WEDNESDAY - PRAIA – continuation of the island exploring and of course - preparing for the New Year. NEW YEAR'S EVE!
6th DAY 01.01.2015 - THURSDAY - In the sea approx. 410 Nm (if not on the sea - looking forward to the traditional Cabo Verde drinks and the sounds of Morna or local variations of Portuguese Fado)
7th DAY 01/02/2015 - FRIDAY - The Sea (certainly sailing)
8th DAY 01/03/2015 - SATURDAY - The Sea (sailing, sleeping, singing, eating - some still can’t eat)
9th DAY 04.01.2015 – SUNDAY → BANJUL (museums, fish market, beach) – BAKAU (Kachikally Crocodile Pool)
BANJUL is the smallest capital city of Africa. It’s habituated by just under 40 thousand habitants. Banjul is not the biggest city of Gambia, but in here the main ocean port and airport are located.
The city was founded by British in 1816. From the beginning it was only a military outpost, which task was to guard just introduced prohibition of slavery. It became the capital in 1965, when Gambia granted the status of an independent state. Symbol of Banjul is a triumphal arch, commemorating the military coup carried out by Jammeh, the current President of Gambia. What to see in Banjul? First of all - the Albert Market near the Presidential Palace at the Liberation Avenue. Colorful, always crowded bazaar where you can buy everything: from African handicrafts, Chinese fakes, fresh fishes, vegetables, fruits, meat, clothes, to the balm of bamboo to help with sunburn. Several museums are located in Banjul: National Museum, African Heritage Center and African Heritage Museum, St. Mary's Church (for those who’s interested how may look and prosper Catholic Church in the country of nearly 100 percent Muslims).
BAKAU - Kachikally Crocodile Pool is located in a small Bakau, a town approx. 16 km from Banjul. It’s one of the major tourist attractions in Gambia because of the lake, where over 100 mainly Nile crocodiles live (determination of the exact number may be somewhat problematic). The largest specimens grow to 4.5 meters in length, and most sociable - like a Charlie crocodile - become a real stars. Charlie has a free run, can be touched and photographed by tourists.
10th DAY 05/01/2015 - MONDAY → LAMIN LODGE (approx. 4-5 Nm) - ABUKO
LAMIN LODGE is a fishing harbor in Lamin Village. It is worth to see because of an opportunity to observe hundreds species of birds that inhabit mangrove forests surrounding Lamin Lodge. In free time you can also go with a fishermen to catch oysters that grow in brackish waters, in the evening listen to the music played on banjo, bark and cymbals.
ABUKO - Abuko Nature Park (nature reserve) is located near the small village of Abuko, 20 km from Banjul, and it’s the oldest protected area in Gambia. The wildlife has begun to be legally protected in that area back in 1916. At the end of the 60s of the last century reserve has been created and it’s currently visited by almost 33,000 tourists every year. Park covers an area of 105 hectares. The evergreen tropical gallery forest is a home for about 290 species of birds and several species of primates: Patas monkey, Grivet, Senegal bushbaby (Galagos Senegalensis). Besides animals living in a tropical forest, there are plenty of: antelopes, hyenas, crocodiles (Dwarf and Nile) and about 50 other species of mammals. The reserve also contains a rehabilitation center, where various species of monkeys, parrots and hyenas can find their shelter.
11th DAY - 06/01/2015 - TUESDAY → Albreda (approx. 16 Nm), Jufureh, JAMES ISLAND → (approx. 2 Nm) - on the trails of Kunta Kinteh
ALBREDA - One of two Gambia attractions signed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. This small settlement was founded by French as a center of slave trade. Competition for Albreda was a nearby James Island (also listed by UNESCO) owned by British. In the mid-nineteenth century, after the introduction of the official ban on the slave trade, the town passed into British hands.
JUFUREH - Countryside of Gambia in the North Bank Division, on the north bank of the Gambia River, with approx. 373 inhabitants (in 2006). The village was one of the first European colonies on the current territory of Gambia. In the seventeenth century there was Fort Jillifree, one of the points of slave transit from this part of the world. Unfortunately, time has not saved a lot of monuments from that time, but city became known again in the 70s of the twentieth century because of the novel "Roots" of the American black writer Alex Haleys. Book tells the story about one of the author's ancestors – Kunta Kinteh, who had been captured here and taken as a slave to America. Currently Jufureh operates a small museum dedicated to the history of slavery on the territories of Gambia.
JAMES ISLAND is an island on the Gambia River on the west side, approx. 50 km from Banjul. The island is small – it’s just 200 meters long, but important for Gambia from the cultural point of view because of an entry on the UNESCO World Cultural and Heritage List. The island was discovered in the sixteenth century by Portuguese, next residents were Courlandese, who built here a trading post and the fort named Fort Jakob. However, the island were passed from hand to hand. During the reign of British, James Island was operated by the Royal Adventurers in Africa Company, which was operating large-scale trade of ivory, gold and slaves. It was from here, when in the second half of the seventeenth century Kunta Kinteh and nearly 100 other slaves were taken to sail to Annapolis, Maryland in the United States on a rickety boat. The island was recently renamed Kunta Kinteh Island. In a few years the island may not exist anymore due to a constantly rising water level.
12th DAY 07/01/2015 - WEDNESDAY → Tendaba CAMP (approx. 36 Nm) → WATER PARK WEST NATIONAL Kiang (approx. 4 Nm - down the river or up; depending on the time - night spent in the Tendaba Camp)
Tendaba CAMP - Kiang West National Park is the wildest area in the basin of Gambia River. Park is inhabited by various species of monkeys, warthogs, antelopes and hundreds species of fabulously colourful birds (including several species of kingfishers, herons and estrildid finches). Mangroves are one of the richest ecosystems on Earth with the most prominent biological production. Fishes, clams, crabs and oysters which live in here are feed for many species of birds, as well as they are just a pantry for the local population.
13th DAY 08/01/2015 - THURSDAY → BINTANG Bolong LODGE (approx. 32 Nm) → BWIAM (approx. 10.5 Nm), + trip to KANILAI
BINTANG currently has 700 residents whose main source of income includes rice, peanuts and vegetable farming. The village is divided into three Kabilos (zones): Ceesay Kunda, Manneh Kunda and Jobateh Kunda. There is a school and a kindergarten. Bintang is famous because of Kankurang - initiation ritual of "Mandinka" tribes. Examples of prices in the local "restaurant": breakfast - 100 GMD, lunch (Buffet) - 200 GMD, dinner (fish, shrimp, chicken) - 250 GMD, soft drinks (Fanta, Sprite, coconut) - 25 GMD, (1 Euro in the "restaurant" = 38 GMD)
KANILAI - a visit in the village of the Mandinka tribe living here. Mandinka (also known as Mandingo) - "A bird which is in the air a mind has on the earth". Wherever you are, it is important to remember where you come from and what is important. Mandinka is a tribe of beautiful people known for their musical abilities. Mandinka lives in groups of villages that are independently governed by elders and chiefs. Women work on the rice fields and planting other plants, while men are engaged in the cultivation of peanuts and corn taking other work in the dry season. Before the Islamic invasion, Mandrika were supporters of animistic religions believing in spirits and forces of the nature. Since the invasion, more than 90% of villagers became followers of Islam. Mandinka are particularly known for their dance and sing. They are the creators of instrument called "bark", many dancers and singers tells stories by playing on these instruments. In case of some spare time after visiting Mandinka, a drive for a meal to Sindola Lodge is planned - apparently very nicely landscaped resort with a swimming pool.
14th DAY 09/01/2015 – FRIDAY → BANJUL ( ok. 38 Nm ) – time for „Don’t cry for me Africa”
15th DAY 10/01/2015 – SATURDAY – beach, market – last time for souvenirs and gifts for friends, departure.
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